Soap from Scratch

Everyone should try making soap at least once. My first experience with the process was during my early years, while homeschooling my oldest daughter Asia. I had read an article in Gentle Spirit Magazine that included directions. I did some research before setting off to try my first batch.

Much of the soapmaking process has to do with the chemical reaction of the ingredients being combined. I tried to follow the directions as closely as possible, and we had success with our very first sweet-smelling batch. We were so pleased with the outcome that we decided to try it a few more times.

When I began the project for this article, I was again reluctant - mainly because of the importance of getting the measurements right, and also because I knew I would again be working with lye. Even though each batch turned out as delicious-smelling soap, I did make mistakes. The blessing was that each batch inevitably turned out OK in spite of my errors. A few times we had to take turns stirring for up to two hours beyond the required time, but the outcome was basically the same.

I must warn you that soapmaking is not an inexpensive project. After you initially buy the coconut oil and the other essential ingredients, and some of the needed equipment, you’ll realize that the project is an investment. Not all of your supplies will have to be purchased, as you can improvise in a few areas, but some things will need to be bought. If you figure out the cost breakdown, you’ll find that your soap will cost about $2-3.00 a bar, depending upon the quality of the oils and other ingredients. After learning what it cost, I timed the making of my batch with Christmas, because the soaps make a wonderful gift, and they can be wrapped in pretty paper and added to any gift basket.

I purchased my supplies for this project about a year ago. I was planning to make a batch then and never got around to it. My first step was to completely clear my sink area and set out newspaper to cover my counter space, in case I accidentally spilled one of the ingredients. Then I gathered all my tools and equipment, as follows:

1. A good quality (accurate) scale that measures in ounces and pounds.

2. One wide-mouth glass jar with a two-quart minimum. Any used food jar of that size will do.

3. Two wooden spoons, which should be reserved exclusively for soapmaking.

4. A one-gallon (or larger) stainless steel (or enamel) pot. You should never use aluminum.

5. A two-cup plastic (or glass) measuring cup.

6. One stainless-steel wire whisk. (This is optional, but will help you mix in the dry ingredients.)

7. One thermometer that measures between 80 and 110 degrees F. I use a chef’s thermometer that I bought at Wal-Mart.

8. One pair of well-fitting rubber gloves.

9. Safety glasses.

10 One plastic food storage container with a lid, or a shoebox-size box. This will be your mold.

11. Two blankets.

12. One jar of vinegar. This is used to neutralize lye in case you accidentally spill some onto your skin. Vinegar can also be used for clean up afterwards.

This recipe is for a mild, all-purpose bar soap, which is my husband’s favorite. I try to stay away from some of the sweeter fragrances, since he loves to use my homemade soaps.

24 ounces of olive oil (Use a low-quality brand.)

24 ounces of coconut oil (Can be found in a health food store.)

38 ounces vegetable shortening (Crisco or equivalent)

12 ounces sodium hydroxide (lye) (Often found in hardware stores.)

32 ounces tap water

Essential Oils (For natural fragrance)

3 ounces cinnamon (oil)(Can be found in a health food store.)

1 Tbsp cinnamon powder

When you make soap for the first time, you will want to do it while your children are napping or completely occupied. If you are distracted or you break your concentration, you may make a mistake or splash the lye.

For each of the following steps, be certain to account for the weight of the measuring container. You can do that by first zeroing out your scale with the empty cup on it. You are now ready to add your ingredients.

Put on your rubber gloves. Weigh out 12 ounces of lye in the measuring cup. Then, weigh out 2 lbs. of cold water, placing that into the large glass container.

Now gradually mix the lye with the water. (It is important to use safety glasses because the lye will heat the water, and fumes will be released. You will need good ventilation. Try to avoid inhaling the fumes by turning your face away.)

Add the lye slowly, and stir with a wooden spoon that is dedicated to that job alone. As soon as the lye is dissolved, set the jar aside. I usually keep mine in the kitchen sink for the entire process.

Step 2

Weigh out 24 ounces of coconut oil and 38 ounces of vegetable shortening into the pot. Melt this mixture over a low heat, stirring frequently. If you hear popping from hot oil, the heat is set too high. As soon as it is melted, remove from the heat and stir in 24 ounces of olive oil.

Keep your gloves on. This step involves getting the temperature of the lye to between 95 and 98 degrees F, while at the same time getting the pot of oils to the same temperature range. When both mixtures are within this range, combine them. You will need to have full and complete attention during this step.

Use hot or cold water in the sink to either raise or lower the temperatures of the lye mixture in the container. I keep the water in the sink up to at least the height of the ingredients in the container. The lye mixture always seems to take a little longer to lower, so remove the oils from the water once it begins to get close to the goal temperature.

While you are juggling temperatures, prepare your soap mold. Lining the box with a trash bag should be sufficient. If you plan to use a professional mold, cover the surface with shortening.

Step 4

Once your temperatures get into the proper range, your big moment has arrived. Slowly pour the temperature-corrected lye into the temperature-corrected oils. Stir slowly and constantly in a circular motion. After the two have been merged for a few moments, you will see the chemical reaction called saponification, which is the scientific name for the creation of soap.

Continue to stir for about ten minutes. Eventually you will notice a subtle change in the mixture. It will become slightly thicker and will seem creamy. This change is the beginning of tracing. At the early point of this tracing, you should add your essential oils and colorant.

As soon as your fragrant oils and colorant are added and stirred into the soap mixture, it is time to place the mixture into the mold. If you find the consistency doesn't trace as well as you think it should, then continue to stir a little longer.

Once the soap is in the box, cover the box with a lid. Set it in an undisturbed, warm place and cover well with many layers of blankets. Allow the soap to set undisturbed for eighteen hours to complete the saponification process.

Remove the blankets and lid. The soap should appear as a large block - firm, fresh, and fragrant. Allow it to sit uncovered for another eight to twelve hours before removing it from the box. To remove, turn the box upside down and allow the soap to fall onto a towel or clean surface. If you have followed the directions closely, you should have a good batch of homemade soap.

If some of your calculations were off, you might notice a thin layer of oil on the top of your soap and a crusty layer on the bottom. This is called separation, and can be fixed by simply scraping off the top and the bottom. Sometimes I had a pale layer that covers the topside of the soap. I just waited a week longer before using the soap. It still worked fine, and I noticed no real difference. The lye has broken down by then, which would be your main concern. If you test the soap with the tip of your tongue and it doesn’t give you a bite back, it’s safe to use.

If you would like to stamp or cut your soap, now is the time. With your rubber gloves on, cut the soap into bars, and use your end pieces and scraps for easily shaped balls.

As time goes by and your soap dries, it will become progressively harder. It is important that you continue to allow your soap to cure after you cut it. It should be allowed to sit another two - three weeks before using it. It is best if kept in a clean dust-free area. As it cures, the soap will become milder, and will create a more creamy texture when you use it.

If the soapmaking bug bites you, there are plenty of books out there to help you with your new hobby. If you’re good at it, you may even consider starting a home business selling these wonderful soaps. There is a whole world of soapmaking molds, techniques, and interesting recipes, and I hope you will decide to give it a try.